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µð¿À¸£-Christian Dior, Fashion Designer, France | ||
Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ Christian Dior [Ãâ»ý] 1905³â 1¿ù 21ÀÏ ÇÁ¶û½º ³ë¸£¸Áµð ±×¶ûºô [»ý¸»·Î ¸ù»ý¹Ì½© ±×¶ûºô, ¾ÆÀÌ¿Í ÇÔ²² ÇÁ¶û½º¿©Çà] [»ç¸Á] 1957³â 10¿ù 23ÀÏ (52¼¼) ÀÌÅ»¸®¾Æ Å佺ī³ª [ÀÌÅ»¸®¾Æ Å佺ī³ª ÇÇ·»Ã¼ ¿©Çà] [26ºÐ Youtube µ¿¿µ»ó] [±¹Àû] ÇÁ¶û½º [ÇÁ¶û½º ¿©Çà] [Á÷¾÷] ÆÐ¼Ç µðÀÚÀÌ³Ê [¿ä¾à] ÇÁ¶û½ºÀÇ ÆÐ¼Ç µðÀÚÀ̳ÊÀÌ´Ù. [ºê·£µå - Å©¸®½ºÂù µð¿Ã] ±ä Ç÷¹¾î ½ºÄ¿Æ®¸¦ ¡®´º·è¡¯¶ó´Â À̸§À¸·Î ¹ßÇ¥ÇÑ Á¦1ȸ Ä÷º¼Ç¿¡¼ Á¦1±Þ µðÀÚÀ̳ʷΠÀÎÁ¤¹Þ°í, ±×ÀÇ ·Õ ½ºÄ¿Æ®°¡ Àα⸦ ²ø¾ú´Ù. ÀÌÈÄ Æ«¸³¶óÀΡ¤H¶óÀΡ¤A¶óÀΡ¤Y¶óÀΡ¤¾Ö·Î ¶óÀÎ µîÀ» ¹ßÇ¥ÇÏ¿© ¼¼°èÀÇ ÆмÇÀ» À̲ø¾ú´Ù. [È°µ¿ºÐ¾ß] ¿¹¼ú [ÁÖ¿ä¼ö»ó] ·¹Áö¿Ëµµ³ú¸£ ÈÆÀå(1956) [ÁÖ¿äÀú¼] ¡¶ÆÐ¼Ç »çÀü(ÞÀîð)¡·¡¶³ª´Â À¯ÇàÀ» ¸¸µç´Ù¡· ¡¶ÀÏ·ùµðÀÚÀ̳ʰ¡ µÇ±â±îÁö¡· [¿ä¾à] 1905³â ³ë¸£¸Áµð ±×¶ûºô¿¡¼ Ãâ»ýÇÏ¿´´Ù. [ÇÁ¶û½º µð¿Ã ¹ÂÁö¾ö / ±×¶ûºô / ³ë¸£¸Áµð] °ÇÃà¿¡ ±íÀº Èï¹Ì¸¦ °¡Áö°í ÀÖ¾úÀ¸³ª ¿¡ÄÝ ¸®ºê¸£ µ¥ ½Ã¾Ó½º Æú¸®Å×Å©¿¡¼ ¼öÇÐÇÏ°í ¿Ü±³°üÀ» Áö¸ÁÇß´Ù. 1930³â °øȲ(ÍðüË) ¶§ Áý¾ÈÀÌ ÆÄ»êÇÏ¿© ÇѶ§ ȶûÀ» ¿±âµµ Çß´Ù. 1935³âºÎÅÍ »ýÈ°ÀÇ ¹æÆíÀ¸·Î µå·¹½º¿Í ¸ðÀÚÀÇ Å©·ÎÅ°¸¦ ±×¸®±â ½ÃÀÛÇÏ¿©, 1938³â R.ÇÇ°ÔÀÇ ¾çÀåÁ¡ÀÇ µðÀÚÀ̳ʰ¡ µÇ¾ú´Ù. Á¦2Â÷ ¼¼°è´ëÀü¿¡ Á¾±ºÇÏ¿© ÇѶ§ µðÀÚÀÎÀ» ¸Ö¸®ÇßÀ¸³ª, ´Ù½Ã ÇÇ°ÔÀÇ ¾çÀåÁ¡¿¡ µ¹¾Æ¿Í ·ò½Ã¾Ó P.¸¦·Õ µîÀ» ÀüÀüÇÏ¿´´Ù. 1947³â µ¶¸³, Æĸ®ÀÇ ¸ùÅ×´º°¡(ʶ)¿¡ ÀÚ½ÅÀÇ ¾çÀåÁ¡À» ¿¾úÀ¸¸ç, ±ä Ç÷¹¾î ½ºÄ¿Æ®¸¦ ä¿ë, ¡®´º·è¡¯¶ó´Â À̸§À¸·Î ¹ßÇ¥ÇÑ Á¦1ȸ Ä÷º¼Ç¿¡¼ Á¦1±Þ µðÀÚÀ̳ʷΠÀÎÁ¤¹Þ°í, µð¿À¸£ÀÇ ·Õ½ºÄ¿Æ®°¡ Àα⸦ ²ø¾ú´Ù. ÀÌÈÄ Æ«¸³¶óÀΡ¤H¶óÀΡ¤A¶óÀΡ¤Y¶óÀΡ¤¾Ö·Î ¶óÀÎ µîÀ» ¹ßÇ¥ÇÏ¿© ¼¼°èÀÇ ÆмÇÀ» À̲ø¾úÀ¸¸ç, 1956³â ·¹Áö¿Ëµµ³ú¸£ ÈÆÀåÀ» ¹Þ¾Ò´Ù. 1957³â ½ºÇÉµé ¶óÀÎÀ» ¹ßÇ¥ÇÑ ÈÄ »ç¸ÁÇÏ¿´´Âµ¥, µð¿À¸£ÀÇ ¾çÀåÁ¡Àº ¸¶¸£Å© º¸¾ÓÀÌ À̾î¹Þ¾Ò´Ù. Àú¼¿¡ ¡¶ÆÐ¼Ç »çÀü(ÞÀîð)¡·¡¶³ª´Â À¯ÇàÀ» ¸¸µç´Ù¡· ¡¶ÀÏ·ùµðÀÚÀ̳ʰ¡ µÇ±â±îÁö¡· µîÀÌ ÀÖ´Ù. [¾î·Ï] "³ª´Â ²É °°Àº ¿©¼º(Flower Woman)À» µðÀÚÀÎÇß´Ù." "¿ì¾ÆÇÔÀ̶õ ±¸º°(distinction)°ú ÀÚ¿¬½º·¯¿ò(naturalness), µ¹º½(care), ´Ü¼ø¼º(simplicity) µî ÀÌ ³×°¡ÁöÀÇ ¹Ù¸¥ Á¶ÇÕ¿¡¼ ¸¸µé¾îÁö´Â °ÍÀÌ´Ù. À̸¦ ¹þ¾î³ª¸é °¡½Ä¸¸ÀÌ ÀÖÀ» »ÓÀÌ´Ù. ÀÌ ³×°¡Áö Áß¿¡ °¡Àå Áß¿äÇÑ °ÍÀº µ¹º½(care)ÀÌ´Ù. µ¹º»´Ù´Â °ÍÀº ´ç½ÅÀÌ ¿ÊÀ» °í¸£°í, °í¸¥ ¿ÊÀ» Àß ÀÔ°í, ±× ¿ÊÀ» °ü¸®ÇÏ´Â °ÍÀ» ¸»ÇÑ´Ù." [Elegance] I will only say now that elegance must be the right combination of distinction, naturalness, care and simplicity. Outside this, believe me, there is no elegance. Only pretension. Elegance is not dependent on money. Of the four things I have mentioned above, the most important of all is care. Care in choosing your clothes. Care in wearing them. Care in keeping them. [»ý¾Ö È°µ¿ ¹× ¾÷Àû] Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ (Christian Dior, 1905³â 1¿ù 21ÀÏ ~ 1957³â 10¿ù 23ÀÏ)´Â ÇÁ¶û½ºÀÇ ´ëÇ¥ÀûÀÎ ÆÐ¼Ç µðÀÚÀÌ³Ê Áß ÇÑ ¸íÀ¸·Î ¼¼°èÀûÀÎ ºê·£µå Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ S.A. (Christian Dior S.A.)ÀÇ Ã¢½ÃÀÚÀÌ´Ù. 1947³â ù ÄÝ·º¼Ç¿¡¼ ¼±º¸ÀÎ ´º ·è (New Look)À¸·Î Á¦1±Þ µðÀÚÀ̳ʷΠÀÎÁ¤ ¹Þ¾Ò´Ù. ÀÌÈÄ ¸Å ½ÃÁð Æ«¸³ ¶óÀÎ, H ¶óÀÎ, A ¶óÀÎ, ¾Ö·Î¿ì ¶óÀÎ µî »õ·Î¿î µðÀÚÀÎ ¶óÀÎÀ» ¼±º¸À̸ç Àü ¼¼°è ÆмǰèÀÇ ÁÖ¸ñÀ» ¹Þ¾Ò´Ù. ¶ÇÇÑ »óÇ°ÀÇ ¹üÁÖ¸¦ È®´ë½ÃŲ ±Û·Î¹ú ºê·£µå Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ S.A. ¼³¸³À» ÅëÇØ ÀüÈÄ ÆÐ¼Ç »ê¾÷ÀÇ »õ·Î¿î ¸ðµ¨À» Á¦½ÃÇß´Ù. Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£´Â 1905³â ÇÁ¶û½ºÀÇ ¹Ù´å°¡ ¸¶À» ³ë¸£¸Áµð ±×¶ûºô¿¡¼ ž´Ù. [Å©¸®½ºÂù µð¿ÃÀÇ µµ½Ã ±×¶ûºô , ³ë¸£¸Áµð] ¾Ë·º»óµå¸£ ·çÀ̽º ¸ð¸®½º µð¿À¸£ (Alexandre Louis Maurice Dior)ÀÇ ´Ù¼¸ ÀÚ³à Áß µÑ°·Î À¯º¹ÇÑ ½Ç¾÷ÀÚÀÇ ¾ÆµéÀ̾ú´Ù. µð¿À¸£´Â Ç×»ó ¿ì¾ÆÇÏ°í ¼¼·ÃµÇ°Ô Ä¡ÀåÇÑ ¾î¸Ó´Ï¸¦ ¿©¼ºÀÇ ¸ð½ÀÀ¸·Î È®¸³Çß°í ÀÌ´Â ÈÄ¿¡ Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ µðÀÚÀο¡ ¿µ°¨À» ÁÖ¾ú´Ù. Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ ÃÖÃÊÀÇ Çâ¼öÀÎ ¡®¹Ì½ºµð¿À¸£¡¯µµ ÀÚ½ÅÀÌ ´©À̸¦ ȸ»óÇÏ¸ç ¸¸µç °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ºÎ¸ð´ÔÀÌ ¹Ù¶ó´ø ´ë·Î 1920³âºÎÅÍ 1925³â±îÁö ¿¡ÄÝ ¸®ºê¸£ µ¥ ½Ã¾Ó½º Æú¸®Å×Å© (the Ecole des Sciences Politiques)¿¡¼ °øºÎÇÏ°í ¿Ü±³°üÀ» Áö¸ÁÇßÁö¸¸, µð¿À¸£´Â °ÇÃà°ú ¿¹¼ú¿¡ ±íÀº Èï¹Ì¸¦ °¡Áö°í ÀÖ¾ú´Ù. Çб³¸¦ ¶°³ª ¾Æ¹öÁö·ÎºÎÅÍ ¹ÞÀº µ·À¸·Î 1928³â ¹Ì¼ú°ü ÀÚÅ© ºÀÀå (Jacques Bonjean)À» ¿¾ú°í, Á¶¸£ÁÖ ºê¶óÅ©, Æĺí·Î ÇÇÄ«¼Ò, Àå ÄÛÅä (Jean Cocteau), ¸·½º ÀÚÄß (Max Jacob) µîÀÇ ÀÛÇ°µéÀ» ´Ù·ð´Ù. 1930³â °øȲÀ¸·Î ÁýÀÌ ÆÄ»êÇÏ°í 1931³â ¾î¸Ó´Ï¿Í ÇüÀÌ ¼¼»óÀÌ ¶°³´Ù. °¶·¯¸® ¹®À» ´ÝÀ» ¼ö¹Û¿¡ ¾ø¾ú´ø µð¿À¸£´Â Ä£±¸ Àå ¿ÀÁ¨´À (Jean Ozenne)¿¡°Ô ÆÐ¼Ç µå·ÎÀ×À» ¹è¿ì°í, ¸·½º Äɳª (Max Kenna)¿¡°Õ »öÄ¥ÇÏ´Â ¹ýÀ» ¹è¿ö »ýÈ°ÀÇ ¹æÆíÀ¸·Î ¿ÀÆ® ÄíÆ¢¸£ (haute couture)¿¡ ¸ðÀÚ¿Í µå·¹½ºÀÇ Å©·ÎÅ°¸¦ ±×·Á¼ ÆȾҴÙ. ÀÌÈÄ 1938³âºÎÅÍ ·Î¹öÆ® ÇÇÁ¦ (Robert Piquet)ÀÇ ¾çÀåÁ¡¿¡¼ µðÀÚÀ̳ʷΠÀÏÇß´Ù. 1939³â Á¦2Â÷ ¼¼°è ´ëÀü¿¡ Á¾±ºÇÏ¸é¼ Çѵ¿¾È µðÀÚÀÎÀ» ÇÏÁö ¾Ê°í, Á¦´ë ÈÄ ÇÁ·Î¹æ½ºÀÇ Ä®¸®¾Ó (Callian)¿¡¼ ³óÀåÀ» ¿î¿µÇß´Ù. ÀüÀï Áß µ¶ÀÏÀº Á¤Ä¡ÀûÀÎ ÀÌÀ¯·Î ÇÁ¶û½º ¿µÈ¸¦ ±ÔÁ¦ÇßÁö¸¸ ½Ã´ë±ØÀº Àå·ÁÇ߱⠶§¹®¿¡ µð¿À¸£´Â ÀÌ·¯ÇÑ ¿µÈÀÇ ÀÇ»óÀ» µðÀÚÀÎ Çß´Ù. ±× µÚ·Î ·ç½Ã¾Ó ¸£·Õ (Lucien Lelong)ÀÇ ÄíÆ¢¸£¿¡¼ ÇÇ¿¡¸£ ¹ß¸Í¿Í ÇÔ²² ¸ðµ¨¸®½ºÆ®·Î¼ ÀÏÇÏ´Ù 1946³â µ¶¸³ÇØ ¼¶À¯ ȸ»ç Marcel NoussacÀÇ Áö¿øÀ» ¹Þ¾Æ ¡®¸ÞÁ¾ Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£(La Maison Christian Dior)¡¯¸¦ ¼³¸³ÇÑ´Ù. [Àü¼º±â] 1947³â 2¿ù 12ÀÏ ÀÚ½ÅÀÇ Ã¹ ÄÝ·º¼ÇÀ» ¿¾ú°í À̶§ ¼±º¸ÀÎ µðÀÚÀÎÀÌ ¡®´º ·è'À¸·Î ºÒ¸®¸é¼ ¼¼°£ÀÇ °ü½ÉÀ» ¹Þ¾Æ ±¹Á¦ÀûÀÎ ¸í¼ºÀ» ¾ò°Ô µÇ¾ú°í, °°Àº ÇØ ÆмǰèÀÇ ¿À½ºÄ«»óÀ̶ó°í ºÒ¸®´Â ´Ï¸Õ¸¶Ä¿½º»ó(Neiman Marcus Award)À» ¼ö»ó, ¼¼°è °¢Áö¿¡ Áö»ç¸¦ ¼³¸³ÇÏ°í »ç¾÷À» È®ÀåÇß´Ù. µð¿À¸£´Â 2Â÷ ¼¼°è ´ëÀü ÀÌÈÄ 1950³â´ë Àü ¼¼°èÀûÀÎ ±Ô¸ðÀÇ ¿Õ¼ºÇÑ È°µ¿À» ÇÏ´Â Æмǰ踦 À̲ô´Â µðÀÚÀÌ³Ê Áß Çϳª¿´´Ù. 1956³â¿¡´Â ÇÁ¶û½º ÃÖ°íÀÇ ÈÆÀåÀÎ ·¹Áö¿Ëµµ³ú¸£ ÈÆÀå (ÇÁ¶û½º¾î: Ordre de la Legion d'honneur)À» ¹Þ¾Ò´Ù. [Á×À½] µð¿À¸£´Â 1957³â 10¿ù 23ÀÏ, ÀÌÅ»¸®¾Æ Åõ½ºÄ«´Ï (Tuscany)ÀÇ ½ºÆÄ ¸óÅ×īƼ´Ï (Montecatini)¿¡¼ 52¼¼ÀÇ ÀþÀº ³ªÀÌ·Î ¼¼»óÀ» ¶°³µ´Ù. 1957³â ½ºÇÉµé ¶óÀÎÀ» ¹ßÇ¥ÇÑ ÈÄ »ç¸ÁÇÏ¿´´Âµ¥ µðÀÚÀÎ ¹Ú¹°°üÀÇ Àι° ¼Ò°³¿¡ µû¸£¸é, µð¿À¸£ÀÇ Á×À½Àº »ý¼±»À°¡ ¸ñ¿¡ °É¸° ÈÄ ½ÉÀå ¸¶ºñ¿¡ ÀÇÇÑ °ÍÀ̶ó°í ÇÑ´Ù. ¡¶Å¸ÀÓ¡·ÀÇ »ç¸Á ±â»ç¿¡¼´Â Ä«µå °ÔÀÓÀ» ÇÏ´ø Áß¿¡ ½ÉÀå ¸¶ºñ·Î Á×Àº °ÍÀ̶ó°í º¸µµÇÏ°í ÀÖ´Ù. Æĸ®¿¡¼ ¿¸° Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ÀÇ Àå·Ê½Ä¿¡´Â 2,500¸í ÀÌ»óÀÇ ÀοøÀÌ Âü¼®Çß´Ù°í ÇÑ´Ù. Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£°¡ »ç¸ÁÇÑ ÈÄ ¸ÞÁ¾ Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£´Â ¿©·¯ ¸íÀÇ ¼ö¼® µðÀÚÀ̳ʿ¡ ÀÇÇØ À¯ÁöµÇ¾ú´Ù. 1957³â ~ 1960³â ÀÌºê »ý ·Î¶û (Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent, 1936³â 8¿ù 1ÀÏ ~ 2008³â 6¿ù 1ÀÏ) 1961³â ~ 1989³â ¸¶Å© º¸ÇÑ (Marc Bohan) 1989³â ~ 1996³â Áö¾È ÇÁ¶ûÄÚ Æä·¹ (Gianfranco Ferre) 1996³â ~ 2011³â Á¸ °¥¸®¾Æ³ë (John Galliano) 2012³â ~ ÇöÀç ¶óÇÁ ½Ã¸ó½º (Raf Simons) ¸ÞÁ¾ Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£°¡ »ý±ä Áö 100³â°ÀÎ 2005³â, Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£ÀÇ »ý°¡¿¡¼´Â ¼¼°è °¢±¹¿¡¼ ¼öÁýÇØ ¿Â µð¿À¸£ÀÇ ¿ÀÆ® ÄíÆ¢¸£ µå·¹½ºµé°ú º¸¼®, ÆÐ¼Ç »çÁø, È¸È µî ´Ù¾çÇÑ ÀÛÇ°ÀÌ ¿¬´ë¼øÀ¸·Î Àü½ÃµÇ¾ú´Ù. 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(¡°Your dresses have such a new look.¡±)¡±¶ó ¸»ÇÑ ÀÌÈÄ '´º ·è'À̶ó ºÒ¸®°Ô µÇ¾ú´Ù. [½ºÅ¸ÀÏ] ´º ·èÀº ¸Å¿ì ¿©¼º¹Ì¸¦ °Á¶ÇÑ µðÀÚÀÎÀÌ´Ù. µð¿À¸£´Â ÇüÅÂ¿Í ½Ç·ç¿§À» ¸¸µå´Â °Í¿¡ Á¤ÅëÇß´Ù. µð¿À¸£´Â ½º½º·Î ¡°I have designed flower women."¶ó°í ¾ð±ÞÇÏ¸ç °î¼±¹Ì¸¦ °Á¶ÇÏ°í °ü´ÉÀûÀÎ ½Ç·ç¿§À¸·Î ¿©¼ºÀÇ ¸öÀÇ À籸¼ºÀ» ½ÃµµÇß´Ù. ÀÌ·¯ÇÑ ½Ç·ç¿§¿¡ ¸ÂÃß±â À§ÇØ ÈüÀÇ ÁÖ¸§Àå½Ä, ÄÚ¸£¼Â, ÆÐƼÄÚÆ® µîÀ» ÀÔ¾ú°í ¸ö¿¡ Àß ¸Âµµ·Ï ÄÉÀӺ긯 (cambric)°ú ŸÇÇŸ (taffeta)·Î µå·¹½º¸¦ ¸¸µé¾ú´Ù. µ¿±Û°í ¿Ï¸¸ÇÑ ¾î±ú, Ç㸮¿¡¼ ¾Æ·¡·Î ³»·Á°¥¼ö·Ï ³Ð°Ô ÆÛÁö´Â dz¼ºÇÑ Ç÷¹¾î ½ºÄ¿Æ® (flare skirt), °¡´Ã°Ô Á¶ÀÎ Ç㸮·Î ÀüüÀûÀ¸·Î 8ÀÚ¸¦ ÀÌ·ç´Â ¿©¼º½º·¯¿ò°ú ¿ì¾ÆÇÔÀ» ±Ø´ëÈ ½ÃŲ ½Ç·ç¿§À̾ú´Ù. ºñ±³Àû ±æÀÌ°¡ ±æ°í µå·¹½º°¡ Ç÷¹¾î°¡ ¸¹¾Ò±â ¶§¹®¿¡ »ï°¢ÇüÀ» ÀÌ·ç´Â ÇǶó¹Ìµå ½ºÅ¸ÀÏÀ̾ú°í, ¼Ò¸Åµµ ¿©¼º½º·¯¿î ¶ó±Û¶õ ¼Ò¸Å (raglan sleeve), µ¹¸¸ ¼Ò¸Å (dolman sleeve), ¸ñ ºÎºÐµµ À® Ä®¶ó (wing collar) µîÀ» »ç¿ëÇÏ¿´´Ù. 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ÀÌ·¯ÇÑ ±×ÀÇ ³ë·ÂÀº ±×¸¦ 20¼¼±â Æмǰ踦 ´ëÇ¥ÇÏ´Â Àι°·Î ¸¸µç ¿øµ¿·ÂÀÌ µÇ¾ú´Ù°í ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ½À´Ï´Ù. µû¶ó¼ Å©¸®½ºÆ¼¾Ó µð¿À¸£´Â ¾î´À Á¤µµ ¾ç½ÉÀûÀÎ »ç¶÷À̾ú´Ù°í ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ½À´Ï´Ù. ±×´Â ÀÚ½ÅÀÇ ¾ç½É¿¡ µû¶ó ÇൿÇÏ·Á´Â ³ë·ÂÀ» Çß°í, ÀÚ½ÅÀÇ ÆмÇÀ» ÅëÇØ ¼¼»óÀ» ´õ ¾Æ¸§´ä°í ³ªÀº °÷À¸·Î ¸¸µé°íÀÚ Çß½À´Ï´Ù. ´Ù¸¸, µð¿À¸£°¡ ÀÚ½ÅÀÇ ¼º°øÀ» À§ÇØ ¶§¶§·Î ŸÇùÇϱ⵵ Çß´Ù´Â Á¡À» °í·ÁÇÏ¿©, A(¸Å¿ì ¿ì¼ö) µî±Þº¸´Ù´Â B(¿ì¼ö) µî±ÞÀ¸·Î Æò°¡ÇÏ´Â °ÍÀÌ ÀûÀýÇÏ´Ù°í »ý°¢ÇÕ´Ï´Ù. --------------------------------------- Christian Dior [Beauty] Zest is the secret of all beauty. There is no beauty that is attractive without zest. Simplicity, good taste and grooming are the three fundamentals of good dressing and these do not cost money. Grooming is the secret of real elegance. The best clothes, the most wonderful jewels, the most glamourous beauty don't count without good grooming. [Color] The colors of gray, pale turquoise and pink will prevail. [Elegance] I will only say now that elegance must be the right combination of distinction, naturalness, care and simplicity. Outside this, believe me, there is no elegance. Only pretension. Elegance is not dependent on money. Of the four things I have mentioned above, the most important of all is care. Care in choosing your clothes. Care in wearing them. Care in keeping them. But it is possible for a woman to be elegant without spending very much money on her clothes, if she follows the basic rules of Fashion and is careful to choose the clothes that suit her personality. [Fashion] Have you ever seen a woman enter a shop and ask for "something just like the one I'm wearing"? ––on what sustains fashion The New Look brought me heavy mail. Letters arrived by the thousands ––mostly enthusiastic but some indignant. A garage owner from Los Angeles wrote and told me that he had sworn to "tear me apart" on his next visit to Paris. According to him, it was my fault that his wife looked like a stuffed doll of the time of the Civil War. I have designed flower women. ––on his own "New Look" style [Life] It is unforgivable to do what one doesn't love, especially if one succeeds. I think we have to be aware that people are allowed to make mistakes in their life. I brought back the neglected art of pleasing. To manufacture emotion a man must have a working agreement with madness. [Wealth] The rich live the same all over the world. [Women] When I opened my couture house I decided to dress only the most fashionable women from the first ranks of society. Women are most fascinating between the ages of thirty-five and forty, after they have won a few races and know how to pace themselves. Since few women ever pass forty, maximum fascination can continue indefinitely. My dream is to save women from nature. My weakness...is architecture. I think of my work as ephemeral architecture, dedicated to the beauty of the female body. A woman's perfume tells more about her than her handwriting. Women will be good for you and bring about your success. ======================================= Christian Dior [Born] 21 January 1905 Granville, Manche, France [Died] 23 October 1957 (aged 52) Montecatini Terme, Tuscany, Italy [Cause of death] heart attack [Nationality] French [Occupation] Fashion designer [Labels] Christian Dior Christian Dior (21 January 1905 – 23 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior, but now owned by Groupe Arnault. [Early life] Christian Dior was born in Granville, a seaside town on the coast of Normandy, France, the second of the five children of Maurice Dior, a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer (the family firm was Dior Freres), and his wife, the former Isabelle Cardamone. He had four siblings: Raymond (father of Francoise Dior), Jacqueline, Bernard, and Catherine Dior. When Christian was about five years old, the family moved to Paris, but still returned to the Normandy coast for summer holidays. Dior's family had hopes he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic and wished to be involved in art. To make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he and a friend sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso. Three years later, after the death of Dior's mother and brother and a financial disaster in the family¡¯ s fertilizer business, during the Great Depression, that resulted in his father losing control of Dior Freres, the gallery had to be closed. From 1937, Dior was employed by the fashion designer Robert Piguet, who gave him the opportunity to design for three Piguet collections. Dior would later say that 'Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come.' One of his original designs for Piguet, a day dress with a short, full skirt called "Cafe Anglais", was particularly well received. Whilst at Piguet, Dior worked alongside Pierre Balmain, and was succeeded as house designer by Marc Bohan – who would, in 1960, become head of design for Christian Dior Paris. Dior left Piguet when he was called up for military service. In 1942, when Dior left the army, he joined the fashion house of Lucien Lelong, where he and Balmain were the primary designers. For the duration of World War II, Dior, as an employee of Lelong — who labored to preserve the French fashion industry during wartime for economic and artistic reasons — designed dresses for the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators, as did other fashion houses that remained in business during the war, including Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, and Nina Ricci. While Dior dressed Nazi wives, his sister Catherine (1917—2008) served as a member of the French Resistance, was captured by the Gestapo, and sent to the Ravensbruck concentration camp, where she was incarcerated until she was liberated in May 1945. [The Dior fashion house] On 8 December 1946 Dior founded his fashion house, backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric magnate. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947, was Corolle (literally the botanical term corolla or circlet of flower petals in English), but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar. Dior's designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations on fabric. He was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form. Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Dior's designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The "New Look" revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War II. [Death] Dior died while on holiday in Montecatini, Italy on 23 October 1957. Some reports say that he died of a heart attack after choking on a fish bone. Time's obituary stated that he died of a heart attack after playing a game of cards. However, one of Dior's acquaintances, the Paris socialite Baron de Rede, wrote in his memoirs that contemporary rumor was that the heart attack had been caused by a strenuous sexual encounter. As of 2015 the exact circumstances of Dior's death remain undisclosed. [Tributes] The Paul Gallico novella Mrs 'Arris Goes to Paris (1958, UK title Flowers for Mrs Harris) tells the story of a London charwoman who falls in love with her employer's couture wardrobe and decides to go to Paris to purchase herself a Dior ballgown. A perfume named Christian Dior is used in Haruki Murakami's novel The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle as an influential symbol placed at critical plot points throughout. The English singer-songwriter Morrissey released a song titled "Christian Dior" as a B-side to his 2006 single "In the Future When All's Well". In the song "Rainbow High" from the film Evita, Eva Peron sings "I came from the people. They need to adore me. So Christian Dior me. From my head to my toes" (from naver.com ³×À̹ö Áö½Ä¹é°ú µÎ»ê¹é°ú wikipedia.org, Ãßõ À¯Æ©ºê µ¿¿µ»ó, ** Selected & Recommended Youtube Videos are shown. **) Christian,Commercial,Cost,Color,Cloth,Combination,Care,influence(+) ~ (PIG: time-variant) Positive Influence GRADE (PIG): C+
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